Chicago was the final stop of our trip, for four days. Toronto had made life surprisingly easy with a baby, so we were curious to see how Chicago would compare.

Same stroller, same absurdly full backpack and, this time, a baby who had just turned four months old. We kept the itinerary flexible: sightseeing, yes, but with plenty of room for naps, feeds and breaks.

To make the comparison with our Toronto experience meaningful, we use the same five criteria and the same weightings. We enjoyed Chicago, but more often had to leave the stroller at an entrance. With a baby who could not yet sit independently, that mattered.

Context for our reviewFour days in September 2026, two parents, a 4-month-old baby and a Cybex Orfeo. We stayed downtown and mostly walked. We took one Metra ride, one L train ride and two Ubers. This is a tourist experience, not a test of the entire network or every neighborhood. Venue rules described here are the ones we encountered during our visits.
Experience 01

What “baby-friendly” means to us

Our expectations had not changed since Toronto: we wanted to get around, change and feed the baby, take breaks and enter places with a stroller without every step becoming an ordeal.

An easy door, a working elevator, a changing table or enough room beside a restaurant table are details we barely noticed before becoming parents. Now they can decide how the rest of the day goes.

That is what the score measures. Weather, our hotel and our choice of attraction times help explain the trip, but they are not included in the PapaScore.

Experience 02

Our travel profile

It was still our first major trip with a baby, just a few weeks later than Toronto. We kept the same rule: no minute-by-minute itinerary. At this age, the baby still sets the rhythm.

4 monthsBaby’s age
4 daysTime in Chicago
Cybex OrfeoStroller used

Every time we went out, we brought spare clothes, muslin cloths, a bottle, diapers, wipes, changing mat, pacifier, cooler and bottle warmer with breast milk, plus a sun hat, water and a diaper bag. We were a long way from traveling light.

Depending on the outing, we took the stroller alone or the stroller plus the infant car seat. That detail mattered at restaurants: having the stroller with us did not always mean being allowed to keep it at the table.

Weather context — excluded from the PapaScoreMuch of our stay was hot and humid, unlike the milder days we had in Toronto. We took more indoor breaks as a result. It affected our fatigue, but not the city’s score.
Experience 03

Choosing accommodation with a baby

After Toronto, two requirements had become non-negotiable: a crib and a refrigerator for storing expressed breast milk. Add location and price, and the list of suitable places shrinks quickly.

We compared hotels and Airbnb again. This time, we did not find an Airbnb that suited us downtown, so we chose a hotel. That does not mean suitable apartments do not exist in Chicago.

We stayed at the Swissôtel in Lakeshore East, just east of the Loop. It had what we needed: a good location for our itinerary, a price that worked for those dates, a crib and a refrigerator.

Bonus: a 25th-floor room overlooking the Chicago River. Nice in the morning, but the real advantage with a baby was being able to reach so many places on foot.

Baby crib next to the bed in our Swissôtel room
The crib in our Swissôtel room.
Experience 04

Walking around Chicago with a stroller

Chicago is a big city, but because we stayed downtown we could do most of our itinerary on foot. The Loop, Millennium Park, the Riverwalk, Magnificent Mile and Navy Pier already gave us plenty to do without constantly using transport.

The wide sidewalks were a genuine comfort. We could pass people, overtake or stop without feeling like we were blocking everyone. Even near our hotel, where construction narrowed the path, we still had enough room for the stroller.

Stroller on a wide Chicago sidewalk
Walking around Chicago with the stroller.

Surfaces were generally good on our routes. We still came across a few potholes and damaged sections — nothing that stopped us, but enough to make us watch the front wheels so the baby did not get bounced around too much.

We did not do a major shopping session. We had no problem in the stores we did enter: Target, Uniqlo, TJ Maxx and Macy’s.

Some of this convenience came from our location. In Toronto, our more residential accommodation pushed us onto the subway more often. We cannot attribute every difference to the cities themselves.

Experience 05

Metra, the L and Uber

Metra: easy once we got past the stairs

We took Metra from Millennium Station to Museum Campus for the Field Museum.

The unpleasant surprise came before boarding: the elevator we wanted at Millennium Station was out of service. We had to carry the stroller down the stairs. With two adults, manageable; alone with the baby and bags, much harder. At Museum Campus, the elevator worked.

Getting onto the train with the stroller was straightforward. We used the priority-seating area, which was fine because the train was quiet; we would of course have moved if a priority passenger needed it. We did not test that route at rush hour.

Metal ramp aboard the Metra train
The ramp on our Metra train.

The L: elevators, but less room on board

We also took the Pink Line from Washington/Wabash to Quincy for the Willis Tower. Both stations had working elevators: good start.

Inside, the car felt fairly narrow. It was quiet enough that we could fit comfortably, but we had less space around the stroller than on Toronto’s subway. We never experienced a packed L train, so crowding remains a possible issue rather than something we personally tested.

One curious ticketing moment: none of our cards worked at the ticket machine. We eventually tapped directly at the gate. Revolut did not work for us that day; Amex did. We cannot say why. We were simply glad we had another card.

Our stroller inside a Chicago L train
Our stroller aboard the Chicago L.

Taxi and Uber: a chilly welcome, then no issues

We planned to take a taxi when we arrived at the station. The driver saw our luggage, waved no and drove off. Charming welcome.

We ordered an Uber instead, then another from the hotel to O’Hare when we left. Both rides were straightforward. We had our own infant car seat and installed it ourselves; both vehicles had enough trunk space for our luggage and stroller.

Our French Uber account worked directly. Two rides are not enough to promise a large SUV every time — that depends on the vehicle you get.

Before using the LThe CTA publishes accessibility information and elevator alerts. Those cover CTA stations; our broken elevator was at a Metra station. We did not test Chicago buses.
Experience 06

Getting into and around places with a stroller

As in Toronto, we often found automatic-door buttons. With a stroller, they are genuinely useful. Even with two adults, you quickly appreciate not having to hold a door with one hand while pushing with the other.

Elevators inside buildings were generally roomy. Physical access to stores and major attractions was therefore mostly easy. What varied more was whether we were allowed to keep the stroller throughout the visit.

Willis Tower: baby in our arms

At the Willis Tower, we were asked to leave the stroller at the bottom of the elevator. We carried the baby for the rest of the visit. After keeping the stroller with us at Toronto’s CN Tower, that was a small disappointment.

Luckily, our visit was fairly short. We still enjoyed it, especially The Ledge on the 103rd floor, but we would have liked to know in advance that we would be carrying the baby.

Field Museum: museum and special exhibition were different

The main Field Museum visit was easy with the stroller. For the temporary Pokémon Fossil Museum exhibition, however, we had to park it at the entrance and carry the baby.

The exhibition took us about half an hour, so it remained manageable. At the time, we were a little surprised because the space felt large enough for a stroller.

Automatic door button at the Field Museum
The automatic door button at the Field Museum.
The museum’s published ruleThe Field Museum states that strollers are allowed in the museum except in special ticketed exhibitions, where stroller parking is provided nearby. That matches exactly what we experienced.
Experience 07

Breaks, diaper changes and baby supplies

Restaurants and coffee shops: ask first

We spent more time sitting in restaurants and cafés than in Toronto, partly to escape the heat, and the experience varied considerably from place to place.

Nutella Café: stairs right at the entrance

Mom is a serious Nutella fan, so this stop was non-negotiable. We even went twice. The entrance we used started with stairs going down — not ideal with a stroller. We carried it.

Interior of Nutella Café with stairs and a handrail
The stairs on the right at Nutella Café.

Lou Malnati’s: we passed

We wanted to try a deep-dish pizza at Lou Malnati’s. We were told there would be around a 30-minute wait and that the stroller would need to be parked separately.

High chairs and infant-car-seat stands were available, but our baby could not yet sit in a high chair and we had not brought the car seat. With a quoted 30–45-minute pizza preparation time, that would have meant a long meal holding the baby. No thanks.

Plan B was Labriola, a short walk away. There, the stroller could stay beside our table. Relief.

Pizza table at Labriola with our stroller beside it
At Labriola, the stroller stayed beside our table.

Ghirardelli: easy, and that was nice

We headed to Ghirardelli for a huge ice cream. As soon as we arrived, staff pointed us toward the elevator for the upstairs seating area. We could settle in with the stroller without getting in anyone’s way. Nothing spectacular — exactly what you want from a break with a baby.

Harry Caray’s at Navy Pier: no stroller at our patio table

We wanted lunch by the water. For the outdoor patio, we were asked to leave the stroller at the entrance and hold the baby during the meal. Again, not especially practical for us. We did not test indoor seating.

Changing and feeding: a major strength

Diaper changes were easy. In the restrooms we used, we found changing tables on both the men’s and women’s sides. We rarely had to search for somewhere to change the baby, and that matters during a full day out.

For nursing and bottles, we almost always found a bench or somewhere to sit. Big open spaces such as Millennium Park and Grant Park made proper breaks easy.

We also found Mother’s Rooms at the Field Museum and O’Hare Airport: dedicated spaces where mothers could sit quietly. We had not come across one during our Toronto stay. That does not mean Toronto has none; in Chicago, we appreciated finding them on our route.

Diapers, milk and baby products: what we actually checked

We had already stocked up earlier in the trip, so we did not need to buy baby supplies in Chicago. That is an important limit on our backup-supplies score.

A nice surprise was the breastfeeding section in two Target stores, including one in Chicago, with several breast-pump models and other accessories. We already had everything we needed and bought nothing, but seeing that range in store was reassuring.

Elsewhere in the United States, we had already noticed that diaper models could differ from France even under familiar brands such as Pampers and Huggies. The formula shelves also contained products we did not recognize from France. We did not test any formula because our baby was fed breast milk.

Seeing products on a shelf does not guarantee a specific item will be available at every store. If you depend on a particular product, check before traveling.

Experience 08

The problems we did not anticipate

First Lady architecture cruise: fascinating, but long with a baby in our arms

We really enjoyed the First Lady architecture cruise. The stroller, however, had to stay stored inside; we held the baby for the full 90-minute cruise.

We had booked the 7 p.m. departure, the only time left when we reserved. For our baby, it was clearly the wrong slot. About two-thirds of the way through, we heard about it — loudly. And on a boat, you cannot simply decide to head back to the hotel ten minutes early.

Lesson learned: for us, a long evening activity that could not be shortened, while holding the baby the whole time, was too much. That reflects our time choice and our baby’s reaction, not a flaw in the city.

A stroller on board does not mean you can use itThe official First Lady page states that strollers are folded and stored in the interior salon during the cruise and that children must be removed before boarding.

The heat: more breaks than expected

The heat and humidity tired us more than Toronto had. We would happily have taken a little more of the famous Chicago wind, but it was not really there. Air conditioning became very welcome.

We adjusted the itinerary. The goal was to enjoy the trip, not complete a checklist at all costs. The weather influenced our experience, but remains outside the score.

Experience 09

What we paid in Chicago

As with Toronto, these are the expenses for which we kept exact figures. Dollar amounts use the 2 September 2026 exchange rate, the first day of our stay: €1 = $1.1592, or roughly $1 = €0.86266. The hotel was already paid in euros.

ItemAmount and conversion
Hotel · 2–6 September (4 nights)€716.42
Uber · station to hotel$22.98 · €19.82
Uber · hotel to airport$70.68 · €60.97
Metra + L · two adults$10.00 · €8.63
Field Museum · two adults$60.00 · €51.76
Pokémon Fossil Museum · two adults$36.00 · €31.06
Willis Tower · two adults$99.00 · €85.40
First Lady cruise · two adults and a baby$148.00 · €127.67
Identified Chicago total, excluding insurance€1,101.73

This budget excludes meals, groceries, baby products and other spending for which we did not keep exact figures, including flights and travel between stops. It is therefore a partial total, just like Toronto.

Euro equivalents are indicative and exclude any foreign-exchange fees. The total adds line items rounded to the nearest cent. Reference rate: Federal Reserve, 2 September 2026.

PapaLab verdict

Would we recommend Chicago with a baby?

Yes, with a few constraints worth planning for.

We enjoyed discovering Chicago with a baby. Walking downtown, entering stores, finding a changing table or sitting down to feed was generally straightforward.

The reservations are very concrete: one broken elevator, less room on the L and several moments when we had to leave the stroller behind and carry the baby. They did not ruin the trip, but they are exactly the details we wish we had known beforehand.

What worked well
  • Wide sidewalks and lots of walkable sightseeing from downtown.
  • Easy diaper changes and breaks on our route.
  • Automatic doors and spacious elevators in many places.
  • A well-stocked breastfeeding section at Target.
Downsides / things to plan for
  • Having to park the stroller during some visits or meals.
  • Elevator reliability and available space on public transport.
Chicago PapaScore: 4.1 out of 5

Same weighting as Toronto. The five category scores produce 4.125/5, rounded to 4.1/5.

Getting around with a babyWeight 30%4/5
Transport & accessibilityWeight 25%3.5/5
Changing, feeding & breaksWeight 20%5/5
Entering & moving around venuesWeight 15%4/5
Baby supplies & backup optionsWeight 10%4.5/5
What this 4.1/5 coversOur stay and the places we personally tested. Weather, the hotel, prices and our choice of a 7 p.m. cruise are excluded. The baby-supplies score is based on what we saw in stores, without needing to make a purchase in Chicago.
Experience 11

Real-world testing, place by place

These are the places and journeys our verdict is based on. When we did not check a facility or another entrance, we say so rather than filling the gap by assumption.

Our Chicago stopsOpen the full map ↗
Place visitedStroller-friendly?Changing table?
Union StationYesNot checked
Nutella CaféNoNot checked
RiverwalkYes, but not everywhereNot checked
Apple Michigan AvenueYesNot checked
Millennium ParkYesNot checked
Maggie Daley ParkYesNot checked
Lou Malnati’sNoNot checked
LabriolaYesNot checked
Field MuseumYes, but not everywhereYes
Willis TowerNoYes
First Lady Architecture CruiseNoNot checked
GhirardelliYesNot checked
Navy PierYesNot checked
Harry Caray’sNoNot checked
Harry Potter ShopYesNot checked
Chicago O’HareYesYes

These observations reflect our visit. “Not checked” means exactly that: we did not verify whether a changing table was available there.

Experience 12

Gear from the trip

This is the gear we brought and actually used in Chicago. We did not buy new equipment there.

Travel stroller

Cybex Orfeo

Our stroller for walking and public transport. Light enough to carry when stairs got in the way, but sometimes required to be parked at an entrance.

Read our Orfeo review →
Nursing & bottles

Momcozy cooler and bottle warmer

The duo we carried with breast milk during outings. A full review will be published separately.

Car rides

Our infant car seat

We brought it for Uber rides. We did not carry it on every walk, which mattered at Lou Malnati’s.

Transparency: trip and gear paid for by us. This article contains no affiliate links.

Sources and checks

The anecdotes, timing and conditions come from our September 2026 stay. The official pages below were checked on 12 September 2026 and may change before your trip.

Field Museum · Strollers and accessibilityFirst Lady · Stroller policyCTA · Accessibility and elevator alerts

The instructions we received at Willis Tower and at restaurants are observations from our visits, not claims about permanent policies.